FROZEN IN TIME: THE MIGHTY DOLOMITES
“The event itself was the most enjoyable experience I have undertaken. The selection of route was inspired and a credit to Nico. The roads and bike paths employed to transfer between locations were varied and refreshing. Accommodation was excellent, support unparalleled, with food quality and plentiful. To be honest this trip was as close to perfect as I could ask. It delivered far greater than I expected. Heartfelt thanks to Nico, Matt, Marco and Lorenzo for delivering a life highlight.” - Stephen
Words and analogue photography: Matt Cleave
This particular trip was long overdue. Our head mechanic in Wilmslow (Nico) was due to host these guys in 2020, but for obvious reasons that wasn’t possible until this year. The idea was to ride for 2 weeks through the Dolomites, taking in as many spectacular routes and climbs along the way.
This was my first time riding in the Dolomites, and also my first time riding in Italy to be honest - so I was incredibly excited. For months and months leading up to the trip Nico had been trying to explain to me what to expect, both on and off the bike. The riding, the food, the wine, the culture.
I felt like I had a fairly good idea going into it, but I don’t think anyone can really prepare themselves for a place like that. In a lot of ways it was quite overwhelming; trying to take in the sheer scale of the mountains once you’ve just ridden up some of cycling's most iconic climbs.
Every day was an A to B ride, staying in a different hotel each night. There were a couple of instances where we stayed in the same place for 2 nights - that being the rest day and the final couple of days of the trip in Como. Each stage was roughly about 100km long and anywhere between 2000m and 3000m of elevation.
There were 13 in the group, 10 from Australia and 3 from the UK, plus the 4 of us (myself, Nico, Marco & Lorenzo) guiding them. I only knew of one of the guys prior to the trip (and even then I’d only met him once whilst riding), so the whole group would be new to me. Nico had met a good number of them before, working on similar trips in the past. This really helped set the tone for the trip on the first night.
The group as a whole were absolutely fantastic, and a real joy to host. Everyone there had a connection, some maybe knew each other better than others but it felt like these guys had all been riding together for ages. As the days went by and the riding got inevitably tougher with all those kms in the legs, the camaraderie really showed, everyone encouraging each other to get to the top of the next climb and enjoy a few cold beers at the end of each day's riding.
Between the 4 of us, we shared the riding and driving equally - 2 on the road and 2 in the cars each day. This meant we were all able to ride 5 days each (which quite frankly was hard enough), and tick off some of the climbs we’d always wanted to ride.
My personal highlight on the bike would probably have to be Day 3 of the trip. We took in Passo Giau, Passo Fedaia, Passo Sella and Passo Gardena - it was truly the most epic day on the bike I think I’ve ever had. That was a classic example of trying to soak in as much of the landscape as possible but knowing that you simply couldn’t do so in such a short space of time. That’s a day on the bike I’ll never forget.
Off the bike I’d have to say being on top of the Stelvio (Day 5). I was driving the support car on that day, and once I got to the top, I was probably up there for about 3hrs in total making sure that the whole group went through safely. It felt like the bustle you get on a market day up there, but in the best way; such a lovely atmosphere, not a breath of wind and glorious sunshine. I was also able to explore and capture a lot of photos up there (even sneak in a cheeky Bratwurst as well).
I was using a Canon Telemax with a mixture of Kodak Gold/Colour Plus and Ilford HP5/FP4 B&W film. My partner had bought me the camera the day before the trip actually, so it was a bit of a hit and hope.
I think it [using a film camera] really makes you think about what you’re trying to capture, and appreciate where you are. At the same time I was really conscious of not being too precious about it. The last thing I wanted to do was return home, having only used a few rolls of film and wishing I’d taken more.
There’s also a real thrill in not knowing what you’ve captured. Having to wait until you get them developed and see how things have come out. You almost get to relive the whole trip again looking back through them.
Personally, not only did it inspire me to ride and explore a lot more by bike but it made me want to document those experiences. Even if it’s just a classic loop in the Peak District, taking the camera and treating it in the same way as I did on this trip. It makes you slow down whilst out riding and really appreciate where you are, I think I’d see very familiar roads and routes in a different light.
As well as that, it’s really made me want to explore other mountainous parts of Europe and ride some of those climbs they have to offer.
I’d love to host this group again. There were discussions towards the end of this trip (whilst enjoying our final meal in Como) about organising something similar for next year, somewhere equally stunning and challenging.
Film 1
The first part of the film is climbing up the Monte Grappa. The first climb of the whole trip and it was a pretty big one, 20km long climbing up to about 1800m. The scenery on the way up was ever changing, one of the highlights being the amount of paragliders taking off on the lower slopes. The views of the flat landscape below where we’d started the days riding were spectacular - such a huge contrast looking back towards Treviso.
Day 2 took us up the Passo Duran pretty early into the ride. An absolutely stunning climb on a glorious day - and even though I was in the van, it was quiet enough to enjoy and make multiple stops to try and capture its beauty. The Refugio at the top was a highlight that day and I’m pretty sure Nico made a friend in the man who ran it - he was advising us of a road closure on the descent and even though I couldn’t understand what they were saying it was a pretty wholesome moment. We finished up in the beautiful town of Cortina, and I remember feeling like we were really in the heart of the Dolomites at that point.
The end of the film captures the beginning of Day 3 (and probably my stand out day on the bike). We left Cortina and without any warm up at all, started climbing the Passo Giau - the first of 4 climbs on the menu that day, approximately 16km long with the summit at 2200m.
I could’ve stayed up at the top of this climb for the entire day I think, there was so much to try and appreciate. Walking trails and gravel tracks everywhere, totally different perspectives and landscapes in every direction. A truly spectacular place and the end of the first roll of film.
Film 2
The majority of this film captures the remaining 3 climbs on Day 3 (Passo Fedaia, Passo Sella and Passo Gardena). I think we were truly spoiled on this day, having so many infamous climbs on the menu. It was either up or down the entire day, with next to no flat sections at all - it made for a tough, long day but an unforgettable one.
Fedaia had some pretty steep sections, I’d say the first proper steep stuff of the trip. At the summit, after riding past the beautiful lakes along the plateau, we were met with a bowl of much needed salty mushroom pasta at the refugio. This sat at the base of the Marmolada - the highest peak in the region with the only large glacier in the Dolomites.
The Fedaia was soon followed by the Passo Sella, and on the lower slopes it seemed like we were going to run into our first thunderstorm. The rain started falling and you could hear rumblings of thunder in the distance. Thankfully, we managed to avoid the worst of it and everyone had soon dried off half way up the climb. The sheer rock faces on this climb loomed over you for the most part - it made you feel pretty insignificant in comparison to the surroundings.
The B&W film really captures the textures of the landscape which I’m really happy with, and something you struggle to get using just a phone camera. We were met yet again by an outstanding summit and a brilliant little gift shop (where I managed to pick up a few extra rolls of film). It was then onto the final climb of the day (Passo Gardena), the easiest of the 4 and with a smooth, freshly tarmaced descent into Corvara where we ended the day.
The start of day 4 began with a climb (a common theme during the trip), the Passo Pordoi. Being in the car this day meant I could capture a different perspective again - something that I really enjoyed throughout the two weeks. This coupled with the Passo Costalunga meant that we were at about 1500m ASL for most of the day, until the final 30km of the ride (this day in particular was 110km).
Riding (in my case driving) along large sections of next to no gradient at that altitude was something I’ve not experienced before. It offered up some of the most expansive views of the entire trip, and of snow capped mountains miles and miles into the distance - incredible!
FILM 3
Fresh roll of film at the top of Passo Costalunga, and onto the long gradual descent to lunch in Tires (about 70km in). One of a handful of picnics we put on throughout the trip, and this one in Tires was pretty idyllic. A large, open, quiet town square set about half way down the descent with church bells chiming every so often. After hitting the base of the climb, there were 30km of cycle paths all the way to the hotel (not far from Merano) finishing off with the first swimming pool of the trip - perfect!
Day 5…. what a day! The majority of this roll was dedicated to the Stelvio, and for good reason. I’d never experienced it before, only ever heard stories and seen pictures/films/races - so even though I was driving the car I was still super excited.
It lived up to my expectations, right from the lower slopes before the abundance of hairpins further up, the beauty and scale of the Stelvio was there to see. Given it’s popularity, it was hardly surprising how busy it was - bikes, vespas, super cars (we handed a few fizzy drinks to a guy on a recumbent at the base who had already ridden up and over the other side and was on his way up for the second time… insane!). This did make the drive up pretty slow and a little stressful at times as the road was a lot narrower than I was anticipating, but all worth it for the views at the top.
Being at the summit was a real highlight for me, the time difference between the first and last rider in the group meant that it was a good 2/3hrs at the top - making sure everyone had food/drinks and warmer layers for the descent.
The images give a slight indication of the atmosphere, which felt very much like the bustle you get on a market day. We definitely got lucky with the weather - no wind at all and glorious sunshine. After a few bratwurst and a bunch of memorabilia from the many gift shops everyone descended to the finish in Grosio, where we’d spend the rest day, and with the first half of the trip ticked off.
FILM 4
Day six was a two climb day, and a pretty tough one at that. Passo del Mortirolo was up first, and only a few kms into the day. It’s about 1,300m of elevation gained in 11km, and with long pitches of 15% gradients made for an extremely brutal climb. Myself and Nico were riding that day and we hit it pretty hard (probably too hard for the first few kms), and although I maybe didn’t take in as much of the scenery as I would’ve done riding easier, there was something great about giving it a proper effort. It was pretty special on top, with everyone having done what’s considered to be one of the toughest climbs in cycling - we managed to get one of the few full group photos up there.
It was then onto a 40km gradual descent (the first half of that still at about 1,500m and showcasing roads that felt really untouched and as if they’d been closed for us), all the way down to Malonno for lunch. Lunch that day was a picnic at the top of a cheeky short steep climb off the main road up to a church.
Passo Vivione was next on the menu, and only a few kms after lunch. Another solid 20km climb but with a really different feel compared to most of the others. It was a lot more rugged, with large sections under cover, narrow roads and really quiet (I think we probably saw a handful of cars on the whole climb). Five of us reached the summit together, which had a feel similar to that of the Lake District in the UK - a lot of greenery, and less of the rugged rock landscapes. A few fizzy drinks and the purchase of a cowbell at the small refugio and it was onto the technical descent into Schilpario to spend the night.
FILM 5
Day 7 was consistently lumpy throughout (climbing Passo della Presolano, Passo del colle Gallo and Selvino respectively ) and the first glimpse of the lakes (Lago d’Iseo) where we stopped for coffee.
None of the climbs were crazy in length (and by that I mean they were shorter than the 20km climbs we’d come to expect), but it was another tough day in the legs. They were all a lot steadier in gradient which meant you could settle into a good rhythm. We finished the day on a bike path into San Pellegrino - another beautiful spot!
The photo of Nico and Marco approaching me going up Passo San Marco (on Day 8) is one of my favourite photos of the whole trip.
FILM 6
Day 8 was another one climb day and that climb was Passo San Marco, an absolute stunner. I wasn’t even riding that day, but the climb itself was truly amazing! The landscapes and the views towards the top (the whole way up actually) were insane. It looked tough, really tough in fact, especially the middle section where Nico and Marco went past me pushing on a fair bit.
As for the summit, another glorious day and a lovely atmosphere, a real display of the camaraderie within the group. From there, a long descent to lunch and a stop at a pizzeria - just what was needed. The final part of the day was following the top part of Lake Como down to Tremezzo for about 25km - a lovely scenic way to finish off the day.
Day 9 saw us go further along the lake and finish in Como. A 90km day and one very gradual climb all the way into the hills behind us - a simple 45km up and 45km down. The climb was pitchy all the way and had so much variation. The most notable section being a 4km dead end gravel track to the Refugio Venini - so narrow that I couldn’t drive the van up, but speaking to the guys afterwards sounded like a real treat (tough going but something really different compared to the smooth tarmac we’d become accustomed to).
We had lunch a little further along and it felt like we’d been served proper ‘mountain style food’ - a stodgy wholemeal blob of polenta and a sausage (unforgettable but - to be honest - not in a good way…). The final 20km was all along the lake offering up stunning views, into the busy city of Como.
FILM 7
The final day of riding, and the most fantastic way to end the trip. We explored the hills north east of Como, and headed over to Bellagio (which is at the point where the lake splits) for a little coffee stop.
It was then onto the first climb, the Madonna Del Ghisallo, at the top of which sits a church/cycling museum (Patrona dei Ciclisti) paying tribute to riders past and present and a host of memorabilia inside - a truly special and quite moving place to witness. We shared our last lunch as a group up there as well - enjoying yet another fine bowl of tomato pasta.
From there it was onto probably the most brutal climb of the whole trip - Muro di Sormano (which translated means Wall of Sormano). Everyone was given the option whether to take on the Muro (2km with an average gradient of 17% and max of 27% - a large portion in the middle sits at 20%) or to take the longer 4km way around to the same summit. Needless to say it was absolute madness!
Photos will never quite capture how steep a climb like that is, and there was no way I was able to stop/start to take photos on the way up. It was a simple find your gear and get to the top scenario. I was then able to capture some of the guys once I’d reached the top, the only climb where some of them had to get off and walk up - brutal.
A technical descent (recently well known for the unfortunate crash of Remco Evenpoel - going off the bridge in Il Lombardia), followed by a final flat section back to Como saw the trip complete (the final photo of the series shows Marco giving Domenico a gentle push on the final run in). We then shared an amazing seafood dinner, with a fun, light hearted awards ceremony and a reflection on the 2 weeks spent together. Truly unforgettable!
“The route devised by Nico was sensational. It was challenging (1,075km and 25km vertical over 10 days riding), yet spectacular and achievable with some training under the belt. Hotels were excellent and the all included model worked fantastically for our group. Nico, Matt, Lorenzo and Marco were extremely hospitable but firm enough to keep the group on track. Genuinely highly recommend.
It was hot, so having a big esky with lots of icy cold drinks in the support vehicles was fantastic. I over did my brakes early on and replacement brake pads were available. A small thing but it would have been a hassle if TSC had not been so organised.
Highlights definitely include the immediate after daily ride beers and reflections. An icy cold drink at the top of a huge climb. There were so many. I seriously have no suggestions for improvement. The trip was perfecto.” - Andrew
“I loved it. The scenery was excellent and exactly what I was looking forward to. The hotels were spot on, as were the restaurants. The food and wine were perfect and the easy service at the cafes was a nice addition where the orders were placed and the bills paid without any fuss. I enjoy the simplicity of knowing I just have to ride my bike and the rest is looked after! I enjoy having a cold beer after I get off the bike and some nibbles, nothing complicated, just the ability to spend 20 minutes relaxing before having a shower. All aspects of this trip worked well and definitely it’s one of the best I’ve done.” - Mark
“We had a great welcome. First impression was the athleticism, professionalism and proactive control taken by the Service Course team. Nico to be commended for his command of The Service Course team. All anxieties from participants concerning their bikes were promptly addressed, engendering immediate confidence in The Service Course team and the ride to come.
The riding itself and support provided was absolutely first class. The combination of two guides riding with vehicle back up covered all needs of the group.....across strong to weaker riders. The regroup points were spaced appropriately without being too frequent, this allowed riders to enjoy their own pace without feeling overly constrained by the group needs.
All expressed immense satisfaction in riding above their expectations over the ten days. In short the route whilst challenging was within their capacity and called on them to deliver what they otherwise would not have. The end of ride drinks became a celebration of the days achievements. Kudos for the the ready and plentiful supply of gels, bars, powders. However the unexpected highlight became the supply of buns wrapped in foil, and cold cans of coke and the like. The heat Italy experienced was made so much more bearable during mountain passes with the supply of ready cold soft drinks. The end of day beers being the cream on the cake.” - Stephen
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